FEB 28 – MAR 2, 2020 – Casablanca
February 29, 2020
We are planning a number of stops in Morocco – first stop Casablanca due to cheap fare from Florence!!! We arrive in the evening on February 28 from Italy.
While walking around during our first day, I had to remind myself we’d arrived in Africa!!! Something about it; much of what I’ve read says to avoid Casablanca as too big and sprawling and not interesting. I’m glad we came here!!!
Yes it’s big and sprawling – took 50 minutes on the train from the airport to arrive to Casa Port, half a mile from our Airbnb flat. Our host was very accommodating as he offered to fetch us at the train station and deliver us to the flat at around 8:30pm. He showed us about and then even walked us to the nearby Epicerie for a few supplies.
We’ve landed in a near perfect spot for visiting and enjoying one of the main attractions here – the Hassan Mosque, which is in clear view from our vantage point in our flat. A recently built, 1993, enormous and beautiful structure. We hope to tour it and have to figure out where to buy the tickets. Also the views from our 8th floor very spacious flat is over the sea that is peppered with ships and waves and occasionally small fishing boats.
We ended up with a 16000 step day Saturday after searching for a market for more supplies. We found the Carrefour which was adequate. We delivered the stuff back to the flat and then headed out again to wander to the Medina, the ancient market area, and back along the waterfront.
What a treat! The medina is as expected – busy, narrow and full of great smells from the various bake shops and sounds of motorbikes weaving through. There are many fruits and vegetables and it is apparently orange season. Lots of oranges and fresh squeezed juice.
The impressions here in Casablanca and maybe elsewhere in Morocco are mixed. There are modern hi-rise apartments that must indicate the high rent district. Other buildings are very shabby and there are thousands of satellite dishes – though not sure how many are active as some are very rusty. Our building seems to be somewhere in the condition of “appearing in good shape” in spite of the fact that the flat is great and the elevator seems in excellent condition. Then there are places where the buildings have crumbled down to mere rubble. Some of the conditions remind me of Maputo Mozambique with slightly better sidewalks. Then again I remind myself TIA – this is Africa!
After our walk through a small part of a very large medina we wandered towards the waterfront. We observed the Moroccan Naval Academy!!! And the container port in the near distance. Across from the academy was Rick’s Cafe. Apparently it’s a reproduction of Rick’s Café in the movie Casablanca that is reported to be touristy and expensive for not very good food. We’ve gotten a recommendation for a fish restaurant from our host
We then spotted a large complex called the Marina which is a very large modern mall. We came across and incredible supermarket!!! Beautiful arrays of fruits, veg, meats, fresh fish, and so much more. We didn’t need anything but it was fun looking at it all. We did pick up a little treat – anchovy wrapped green olives!! The olive “bar” and the spice “bar” were particularly pretty.
We were able to exit and reenter the mall once we saw an access bridge to the walkway along the waterfront. A number of fishermen were active with extremely long poles. We saw one with a live octopus but couldn’t tell if he was catching it or using it as bait.
The walkway continued on until we got to the great mosque. What a place!!! So large!!!
Maybe tomorrow we’ll continue walking farther along the waterfront and get a better view of a tall lighthouse we can see from the flat. Also there is more of a park along the section we haven’t visited yet.
MAR 1, 2020 – Casablanca
We have booked tickets for a tour of the great mosque. It’s another perfectly beautiful day – warm, not hot and very clear.
After the mosque walk thru, being nearly overwhelmed by the grand scale of the structure and it’s ability to hold so many worshippers, we join the many walkers along the promenade by the waterfront. We go along for quite a while to the other side given a terrific west to east view of the mosque and the adjacent city of Casablanca.
We take a brief pause at the flat before walking out again to find a terrific dinner at the seafood restaurant recommended to us by our host.
On Monday we leave via the CTM bus to Essaouira which is reported to be pretty and calm. It’s also on the Atlantic and we’ll have 4 nights/3 days there.
MAR 2-6, 2020 – Essaouira
It’s a long all day bus ride from Casablanca to Essaouira, 7+ hours. We end up hailing a taxi as uber is non responsive Friday morning. We end up waiting for a while for the bus to arrive and to board. It’s a fairly comfortable bus, tho no “comfort” station. We seem to stop frequently enough if the need arises. I find though that the rest rooms are not clean and I find using a squat toilet difficult due to how slippery they seem to be.
We arrive in Essaouira and find a taxi. All taxis in Essaouira cost 5MAD for around the town trips. We find the flat with some difficulty as we learn accommodations don’t have numbered street addresses. Rather they are named and not something the taxi drivers know. We finally found appropriate landmarks and the housekeeper met us at the door. My French and her English were limited to such an extent that our “introductions” were a bit of a struggle. She showed us around and most of what was discussed was managed with hand signals and head nods of understanding.
The flat is one of the most spacious and well equipped we’ve stayed at. The view from the sizeable balcony was down a street to the sea. The kitchen was extremely well equipped. It seems the owners spend a good deal of time here with their grandchildren. There were many appliances and gear for cooking anything we could imagine.
We enjoy the 3 full days with walks to the medina, to the small enclosed harbor housing the fishing fleet – all blue boats! We attract a “guide” who won’t stop talking to us. He is informative so I just go along and ask questions. Seems the boats are very specialized depending on the fish. Some boats run nets, some lines, lines with small hooks or big hooks but not both. We saw someone repairing a net. Due to the winds presenting stormy conditions offshore, no one was out fishing. We inspect various kiosks selling seafood and can’t really tell how fresh thing are. And it’s somewhat worrisome that no one has ice present. We see some shrimp and buy some only due to the fact that our guide introduced us to a ‘friend’. They turned out fine!!! We broke free with a small tip and a big smile!!!
On another day we walked along the expansive beach promenade. We saw our first collection of camels. We suspect one can take a camel ride on the beach though we saw no evidence of customers. As we turned to walk inland to the big grocery store, we spotted a small herd of donkeys not sure which way to go. They crossed the road at a roundabout but then changed their minds and crossed back across the road.
Essaouira is a beautiful seaside spot. There are pretty hotels and many restaurants. The medina offers old world charm and is not so big to be overwhelming. Our stay was too brief, but it was time to head inland for some time in Marrakesh and then into the desert.
MAR 6-10, 2020 – Marrakesh
The bus to Marrakesh was about 3 hours and offered great views of the vast expanses of Morocco. We had clear instructions with a pin on google maps to find our flat. Seems it’s still not enough as the cab driver wouldn’t take a look at my phone!! He got close to the street but went down the wrong street twice. He finally figured out what I was trying to show him and he asked for detailed instructions from someone at a hotel nearby. Our host met us at the front door which was a big help!!
We stayed in a comfortable flat though it was odd – no soap and no TP. Linens and towels were great and there were some provisions we could help ourselves to. The supermarket was a shot walk away so we got meal provisions as well as our bearings. We weren’t that close to the medina but found staying quiet for a few days was all we wanted to do.
It was a very early departure on Mar 10 to get our trip to the desert underway. It was a “tour” of about 12 people in a small bus that provided a two-night trip to the desert, Erg Chebbi, and transport to Fez. It was a close as we could get to the Sahara and didn’t disappoint!
MAR 10, 2020 – Marrakesh to Tinghir
Early start at 6am today for a 3 day tour from Marrakesh to Fes with a stop in the desert. I had no idea we’d stop at a UNESCO World Heritage Site Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou. On the caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh but basically in the middle of nowhere and nothing around for miles.
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/444/
Apparently a number of films were made, or filmed scenes, here. The one I want to re-see the most is Lawrence of Arabia!
We drive for a while then stop for tea (mint) and a rest. Then drive some more. We do get to walk around during some of the stops. We stop at a modest hotel for the night in Tinghir. The food is decent and the accommodation very simple but comfortable. The shower seems to leak somewhat but that’s OK!
MAR 11, 2020 – Tinghir to Merzouga Desert
After departing from the hotel we drive a short way and pull over for a view of the ancient Kasbah walled area. Then onto a spot where we walk across a field of garden plots and into the small, contained area with shops and residences all crammed in amongst narrow alleyways. The maze is only navigable if you know how to get around this place. We do end up ducking into a small carpet shop and being told all about Berber carpet making. Our host has sheep and camels in the mountains for the wool in the carpets. They still follow the old techniques of vertical weaving. The baby camel wool is extremely soft and makes a wonderful rug. It comes from the first shear of a young camel when they are about a year old.
After “shopping” we went to lunch nearby. The food is generally basic but quite good – the tagine is generally very satisfying. After lunch we get picked up and on the way to the desert we take a slight detour to walk along the river and into the Gorge. The rock climbers are few but amazingly high up.
When I found and booked our 3 day tour into the Sahara desert near Merzouga I read it would include: depart from Marrakesh, drive over the Atlas Mountains, visit sites along the way, take a camel ride, spend the night in a desert camp, get driven to Fes. We opted up for a tent with ensuite and it’s terrific. What I didn’t know was the camel ride was an hour long and was our transport to the camp and included sunset views from the top of some high dunes. And another hour ride in the morning to watch sunrise and get back to the minibus. I guess I can stand another hour!
https://www.getyourguide.com/marrakech-l208/private-3-day-marrakech-to-fes-desert-tour-t54315/
We enjoy getting settled in our large “family” tent. It will be cool at night so there are a number of coverings for the beds. I enjoy the feel of a baby camel “blanket/rug” and stay snug and warm overnight. It’s quite chilly, probably low 40s, in the morning. We have a great breakfast in the big tent and then get on our way.
MAR 12, 2020 – Desert to Fez
Long day from the desert to Fez. We stop at various places as we cross over the Atlas Mountains heading north. It’s chilly and damp. As we get close to Fez we stop for a while at Ifran, a small town with distinctly European architecture and a lion in the garden!!! The driver is attempting to sort our drop off locations in order to be efficient in driving around Fez and unloading us.
We arrive in Fez after dark, and need our host to meet us to lead us into the old city and to our flat. It was very surprising to find out that several of the couples that we’ve been with for the last 2 days, and after being well “cared” for by our driver/guide, didn’t think to leave a tip. Our guide was extremely grateful when we left a generous tip after being stiffed by nearly half the group.
Our host and his wife led us to our flat, from his restaurant, it’s up the stairs, then left, left, left, to the door of the flat!!!! The passageway would not have enough width for a person and a scooter to pass each other…. After a brief introduction, our host’s wife offered to take us to the nearby small shop for a few basics – water, milk, yogurt. We said thank you, and then went on our own thru the Blue Gate into a very lively Medina to get the bananas and fresh strawberries. Oh the hawkers are out in force…… what a place!!!
Morocco – March 2020 – NNs On the Wind
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