Strandhill, Ireland (West Coast) – Oct 1-Oct 2, 2026

By Kathleen Ennen / October 2, 2026

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Thursday, October 1

Today was another start with a loop drive known as Gleniff Horseshoe Loop Drive. Information suggested we start the 10km drive at Gleniff Barytes Mill Site and drive in a clockwise direction to get the best views. We parked at the mill site and walked around. Barytes is something related to today’s form of medicinal barium, but back long ago it was an additive to various things including paint.

We followed the loop around, stopping at pull offs to admire the views, including Donegal Bay.

We drove on to Strandhill after stopping to get something for dinner. We found the flat with a little help from the host’s mini video of the approach that had been sent us. The parking and entry are not visible from the end of the cul de sac.

Our host Catherine was incredible! Every little detail had been thought of. There was tea, coffee, fresh ground and instant, there were 4 kinds of cereal, butter, bread, jam pots, a quart of milk, crisps, and other snacks! LED candles and fake but sweet flowers were everywhere. The bedroom had ear plugs and as travel comb. The bathroom had soap and a toothbrush and paste kit. There was shampoo, conditioner, body wash, spray antiperspirant (for men and women), cotton balls, q-tips, makeup removing pads, a drawer full of various feminine products. Tooth cleaning flossing brushes!! The bedding and the towels were terrific and the beds were really comfy. An amazing place!!

We are here for two nights. First up was to walk down the hill to the beach. It’s a really active surfing beach but the wind was too much for surfing. The waves were 3-4 meters and 1-2 is preferred. I walked down to the long stretch of nice sandy beach. It was too windy however, the sand was getting blown into my contacts. I took photos of the waves and headed back to the flat. It must be incredible in the summer!

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Friday, October 2

Today started out with pouring rain. Heavy wet stuff. We didn’t have much planned but the hike up Knocknarea was not something recommended in the rain. The lower portions of the trail are uneven flat rocks that can be slippery.

Given the weather we enjoyed a quiet morning at the apartment. When the time came we decided to go have lunch at the Shells Café which was highly recommended. It was terrific. There’s also a wonderful shop next door with all sorts of goodies – souvenirs, candles, food, jams, socks, etc.

We had 2 things to do today so we shifted the hike to later in the day, optimistically hoping for some sun. On the recommendation of Catherine we drove a short way to the Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery. This predates the passage burial mounds we saw in the east by 600-800 years. It is the largest Stone Age cemetery in Ireland and has 30+ passage tombs approximately 5,000+ years old. There is also evidence of there being hundreds of these, many of which still exist on private property and haven’t been studied.

The sun came out while walking around so some of the photos should turn out OK. We were several miles from Knocknarea and I could see the top with the large cairn reportedly where Queen Maeve was buried, standing up, wearing her armor and carrying her spear, and facing to the east to protect her people. It is a large unexcavated Neolithic passage tomb, about 55–60 meters wide and 10 meters high, containing roughly 30,000 tons of limestone.

I was really hoping to make the hike but we started up and the wet stones proved to be too risky. Thom decided to head back to the car and I went up farther to get some pictures. I got passed the big stones to a more gravel like path. A woman going back down said I had come to the end of the risky wet stones and the rest, another 20 minutes worth of trail, was fine. Oh well. Thom was back at the car, and it didn’t make sense to struggle down the wet stuff, tell him I was headed up and then work back up over the risky stuff.

Catherine had recommended we have dinner at the Venue restaurant which provided a great meal. I tried the classic fish chowder for the first time, even though it’s probably on every menu we’ve seen here.