JUNE 13, 2019 To Canada
We left Portland on June 13 for a 10 day trip to Glacier National Park and Banff and Jasper National Parks in Canada. We drove about halfway to Glacier, stopping just east of Spokane at a comfy Quality Inn and Suites. We were greeted warmly and told we could get a free pulled pork sandwich and a beverage, beer or wine. Nice!!!! We enjoyed some wine and beer but passed on the sandwich. We drove to the nearby Safeway and got some salads and a nice hot bowl of jambalaya.
The next day wasn’t quite so long as we drove 250 miles to our cabin near Glacier NP – the Crown of the Continent! We had 2 nights in a very comfy cabin with a mini kitchenette that worked just fine. We enjoyed the late daylight hours and made plans on visiting the park. Unfortunately the Going to the Sun Road will not be open to June 22 at the earliest. And it still could be later…
JUNE 15, 2019 – Glacier National Park, MT
Today we drove into Glacier NP and drove along the beautiful Lake McDonald where there was clear evidence of last year’s fire on the Howe Ridge on the far shore. We went as far as we could but had to turn around when there was no parking at the terminus of the open portion of the road. We drove back towards the entrance and found a great spot to get out and walk along the river and by the Sacred Dancing Cascade and the McDonald Falls. It was beautiful and nicely warm.
After conferring with a park ranger at the visitor center as to what the east side of the park offered which included a glacier overlook, we headed out of the west side of the park, and drove around to the east side, about 100 miles. It made for a very long day but it was worth it!! The east side has mountains that are more visible and another pretty lake comprising the St Mary Valley and we were able to get as far as the Jackson Glacier overlook. The glaciers we’re seeing won’t be here forever; it’s nice to see some of them!
JUNE 16, 2019 – Banff National Park, Canada
We crossed into Canada today as we drove to Banff. Soon after entering CA we rounded a curve along the highway to find cars stopped ahead of us. A “big horn sheep” jam! Several were just ambling along and crossing the highway, before strolling along the guard rail.
Banff is a small cutesy town overrun by tourists due to the large number of Lodges, hotels, etc. that are on Banff Avenue. The traffic during our arrival in late afternoon was enough to make us want to drive away!! Fortunately the Inns of Banff is out at the edge of town and we could park and not drive the car again until leaving.
We stocked up a few things at the grocery store and had a light picnic supper in our room. Sometimes it’s just easier not to go out. We are fully provisioned for breakfast with our own supply of good coffee, yogurt, kefir, milk, granola bars and bananas.
It didn’t take long to realize how spread out Banff NP is and that much of it includes the towns of Banff and Lake Louise. We had 2 days and 3 nights in Banff so decided to spend Day 1 in and around Banff, and Day 2 we’d take the bus to Lake Louise and see the sights there.
JUNE 17, 2019 – Banff, Alberta, CA
We learned that our free pass to ride the Banff transit system was good for 3 days and only on the local bus routes in the town. Even so, the bus fare to Lake Louise for a senior is only $4CA each way!!!
We got on the #6 in front of the hotel and rode out to Lake Minnewanka. This is a large glacial lake showing the characteristic teal/aqua hue of lakes fed by glaciers. Apparently the very fine glacial sediment or “flour” remains suspended in the water causing the classic hue of glacier fed waterways. We first discovered this in Lake Tekapo in the south island of New Zealand.
We walked along a portion of the lake and watched the canoeists paddling. The earthen dam on the downstream portion was substantial and we walked along it to the next shuttle stop to get the return shuttle back into town.
We rode into the center of town and stopped at the visitors’ center which is always helpful when in a new place. We got guidance on a few things, and a few walks to take. We found the free shuttle to the nearby chairlift ride up a mountain above the town and headed there with our $10 coupon from the tourist map!!!
On the shuttle ride up the mountain we passed several Big Horn Sheep and a small lamb. Very cute. The adults were shedding their winter coats. It was pretty clear and not too chilly on the ride up Mt Norquay. The view back over the town was terrific.
We took the free shuttle back to town and took a walk over and along the Bow River. When we got back to the hotel I took a picture from our balcony of Mt Norquay and where we were above the chairlift.
JUNE 18, 2019 – Lake Louise, Alberta, CA
Another blue sky day, with lots of puffy clouds. Getting places in Banff is best by the local transit system. Buses around town to various places – Lake Minewanka, the hot springs, and many others is about $2 per trip ($1 for seniors). Many hotels provide a pass for downtown access.
The regional bus, actually a comfy coach with power outlets and limited wifi, is the best way to get to Lake Louise. We left around 10 and got to the lake a little before 11. All parking was being directed to the out of town park and ride and a shuttle is provided. I’m not sure if it’s free; could be. To get to Moraine Lake (a must) the shuttle is $3 each by credit/debit; no cash. The parking lot up there filled up at 6:30AM. In July it will fill by 5AM….
Lake Louise is a bit of a walk from where the bus from Banff drops you off. We headed to the Chateau Fairmont and found the shuttle to the Gondola across the valley with only seconds to spare before it pulled away. On the ride down from Lake Louise and across to the road up to the ski area and gondola we saw a mama bear and 2 cubs on the side of the road munching on dandelions!! A favorite for bears in the spring. Finally, my first bear viewing. Bear sightings are reported to the park police and we passed a ranger on his way to get the bears off the side of the road. They somehow scare them away as they cause too much traffic and might get hurt in the process.
Given the slight chill in the air we opted for the enclosed gondola in lieu of the large open chair also offered. It was approximately a 15 minute ride up and the views were amazing. The lookout also had a photo guide of the various mountains we were looking at. We could clearly see across the valley with a good view of Lake Louise. We could see the two glaciers up above the lake as well as the Chateau next to the lake. It was incredible.
Then we headed back down to actually see Lake Louise. It too is breathtaking and has the wonderful aqua hue due to the glacier ice melt and to some degree the glacier silt or “flour” as it is a fine as flour. We wanted to take the bus to Moraine Lake, but learned the queue for the tickets was more than 30 minutes. Should have gotten in line earlier…. As we had to wait 45 minutes for our 3:00pm bus we went into the Fairmont Chateau Hotel to find lunch at their deli. It was plentiful and expensive, yet did the trick.
Moraine Lake is even prettier than Lake Louise. It too was crowded but not so much. There is a huge rock pile, or moraine, dumped in years past that forms an impressive dam for the lake. The mountains are high and all around, creating quite a bowl for the lake. Many people were canoeing – at $120/hr for the rental…. The return Moraine Lake shuttle dropped us off at the pickup point for the return bus to Banff. We were lucky to have only had mild wait for a shuttle ticket and did not have to deal with the intense traffic and parking out of town. And we were both able to enjoy the scenery along the way.
JUNE 19, 2019 – To Jasper, Alberta, CA
Unfortunately today started cloudy with a slight rain, and it only got worse. We drove along the Icefields Parkway up to Jasper. It’s about a 4 hour drive but I had highlights to see along the way. The website https://icefieldsparkway.com/highlights/points-of-interest gives all the tips needed.
The drive was spectacular – and if had been clear it would have been amazing. We even encountered snow in the higher elevations. The lakes were the beautiful aqua blue from the glaciers and the water falls were stunning. The Weeping Wall and the Tangle Creek Falls were the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.
We passed by the Columbia Glacier with the hope that it might be a better view if the sun comes out on the trip back south. Also some of the valley views were great, but we didn’t stop, hoping for a clearer day.
Jasper is a small town near the Whistler ski area. There’s a great deal of train activity and one can ride the Mountaineer from Vancouver!!! We found a small market for a few provisions and got a recommendation there for a place for dinner. The Fiddler’s Tavern turned out to be really good!!! We asked the waitress about the snow and if it ever melts from the mountain tops. Evidently it does in the summer. However they get snow all year, even in the summer, though that doesn’t last long as they can also have 80 degree weather when it’s nice.
JUNE 20, 2019 – to Kamloops, British Columbia, CA
A clearer day was not to be had. Should have stopped yesterday at the places we passed by while we had the chance!!! We left Jasper about 10 for a 6 hr drive to Cranbrook AB where we’d make a stop on the way to Coeur D’Alene our last stop on this trip where we want to spend 2 nights. About an hour into the drive south the snow and the road became too much. There was a long line of stopped traffic up ahead of us, and building up behind us. There were rumors that 2 buses farther up had gotten stuck or into some kind of trouble and it would be at least 2 hours before there’d be any forward movement. Given the heavy snowfall that would mean that there would be other accidents and hold ups down the road. And tomorrow is the first day of summer!!!!
We turned around and got back to Jasper around 12:30. We called to tell our hotel we’d not be arriving and found another route by going west on CA 16. It was 5.5 hours to Kamloops where we booked online for another motel stay. Unfortunately this puts us about 7 hrs from Coeur D’Alene for tomorrow’s drive. Out of fear of not getting our money back there, we’ll make the best of it.
After arriving in Kamploops where it was warm and sunny I checked the road status web site and learned that as of 3pm it was still snowing on 93, that driving was not recommended, and that numerous accidents were occurring in the area of Big Bend. We were smart to turn around and take another route. I wonder what all those other cars did?
JUNE 21, 2019 – to Lake Coeur D’Alene, ID
It was an early start for the long drive south and then east to Coeur D’Alene. On checking the highway status again, 93 was still being reported as hazardous. The slush had frozen and the conditions were reported to be snow covered ice, and about 10 inches total snowfall. I’m still wondering what all those other cars did??
We made good time on the roads. It seemed we were on a little traveled route as we saw few other vehicles. We were on a beautiful road for motorcycles – lots of vistas and sweeping curves in the road. We crossed into the US at a tiny port of entry – Ferry WA. No facilities and no duty free shops. Well I guess the $20CA bill will have to wait for the next trip up!
We had a little chat with the border agent – we were the 10th car of the day. The day before there were 6!!! As former employees of GSA (GSA builds border stations) we commented that they were likely far down the list for an upgrade. It was a small building, a small booth and 2 lanes for vehicles. Regular size and RVs or taller units. They do not take any commercial vehicles. The agent reported that if anything, they will close the “port” before putting any money into it. I guess you could drive from the US through the Canadian side, but you wouldn’t be able to drive back south.
We arrived at our inn around 5 after stopping for fuel and groceries. It’s located up a slight hill overlooking a small bay that opens onto Lake Coeur D’Alene. There are great views looking west and we can sit out on the deck area by our room to watch the sun, which sets around 9pm. We’re here for 2 nights, so can relax tomorrow with little driving. I want to go see the dam at the end of the lake, but that’s not far.
